Sunday, May 25, 2008

GUANLI Me109 Review

Summary:

Wingspan: 900mm
AUW (as built): 470g (16.8 oz)
Power Setup: 3s 1250mAh, 200w TP 2409-12T Outrunner, ASSAN 25A ESC.
Avionics: Guanli 36MHz RX, 3 x 9g Guanli Servos

Pros:
  • Great looks.
  • Fast assembly with neat features and handy included tools.
  • Surprisingly good hardware.
  • Flys well provided you keep the energy up.
Cons:
  • Tricky flying envelope (see scale note above).
  • Legacy of NiMH design (battery compartment to thin, and gearbox setup).
Introduction:

When Richard Wood (Woodsy) from AussiEFlight announced he was looking for people to review a new range of small foam warbirds he was planning to import I thought I may as well jump in.

I'm a big fan of foam warbirds - a little bit of history come to life. I've had a great deal of success with my GWS Zero, and even though the Ultrafly P51 wasn't half the plane the Zero was, I've still found a niche to fly it in.

The plane that was coming to me was the GUANLI Me109 (aka Bf109). Along with the plane itself was a full avionics pack including servos, RX, ESC and brushless gearbox/motor.

Before we get into the review it's probably worth going over what the review is about. The review's purpose was to let Woodsy get some honest feedback about this new range of models. As such you may be surprised about the candor of this review. Don't take it as a bad sign about AussiEFlight -the entire purpose of this exercise from Woodsy's perspective is to make sure he doesn't send a pup to any of his customers.

Build:

I'm going to spare you the box photo - the plane was well packed and arrived without a mark.

At first look the standard of completion was very high. The fuselage comes fully assembled and all control surfaces are pre-hinged and secured. That was great news for a fast build. The foam is well finished and painted. As scale models go, it quite looked the part.

Construction is foam around a central ply skeleton which is common to many of these foamies. Seems like a smart way to save some weight, and add some strength to the model.

If you look at the photo on the right you can see the two servo holes for the elevator and rudder servo at the right of the photo. From taking a look you may be able to see the small notch, which provides a nice convenient place for the servo lead to run.

This photo of the wing servo hold shows the same slot. It may not seem like a big thing, but it shows a surprising amount of forethought for a budget Chinese model.

Before installing the supplied servos I tested them all on the bench with a flight pack. Always a good idea with new servos - test before installation.

Another surprising feature was this neat little bag of tools, including even a roll of sticky tape (uneeded I might add) and magnetised screw driver.
This might seem like strange little things to stress but I was impressed - and optimistic. These little things showed a lot more thought than I would have expected.

As I started putting the model together I was impressed by the quality of fit. For example - how well the wing fit the wing saddle on the fuselage. And how well the battery cover/cockpit fit the fuselage.

Hardware with the model was surprisingly high quality too. Collars for the wheels, even a nice wide tail wheel.

The plane uses a single servo for the aileron. The last model I built with this kind of setup was the GWS Zero. For that one I had to put the 90 degree bends in the wire so that I could "trim" the ailerons to line up with each other.

No such problem with this plane - it includes threaded rods.

The one thing I did add to the build was some quick link connectors for the rudder and elevator horns. Seemed a shame not to use them when so much effort had gone into making the build very quick and slick otherwise.

Power System
Like lots of little foamies the GUANLI still seem to be obsessed with provide a motor stick setup built around the idea of using a gearbox. In an age where cheap outrunners are the fastest and most reliable way to power park flyers the throwback to NiMH/Brushed motor days is, to be honest, unwelcome.

However, Woodsy provided a little brushless inrunner gearbox rig for the plane. This seemed like the perfect solution, and with the plane itself he was seeking feedback.

Most motors are going to need some extension leads made up so that the motor leads can reach the battery compartment. I used some speaker wire for mine.

The gearbox was a 5.33:1 reduction, and the included props with the model were 10x8 slow flyer props. To be honest - a 10x8 prop on this plane would have been a mission - the undercarriage aren't that long - getting the plane to even rotate without prop striking would be a challenge.

Once again - this throwback to the NiMH stuff is a bit unwelcome.

Okay - so static testing the motor pulled about 15A with the included prop on a 3s - for about 15 seconds, and then began the tail of woe. When the prop spun the prop shaft shifted forwards just a little, which meant that the engine cog was only making contact with about a quarter of the prop cog. The result was that the metal engine cog stripped the plastic prop cog very quickly.

I've seen this exact problem on a mate's brushless gearbox motor (that came as part of an RTF plane). The problem is these cheap brushed speed 400 gearboxes are just not up to handling the power put out by a brushless motor. My mate's plane lost power in flight, and spun in (of course it sounds like it is working, and the prop is spinning, but you aren't actually getting any power).

So, I adjusted the motor cog, and spun up again this time making sure that the remaining 3/4 of the prop cog's teeth was in good contact. It took a little longer - maybe 45 seconds this time, but once again the prop cog was stripped.

Now - a static load test is the most demanding environment for the gearbox. There is no potential to unload, but nevertheless, the gearbox really should have stood up to more punishment than that. I would predict any plane running this setup on 3s can probably expect less than 10 flights before losing power in flight..., which won't be fun.

So, I decided to take a different tack and install simple, reliable brushless outrunner. Of course, the biggest problem here is that the motor mount is really built for a gearbox. I ordered a Towerpro 2409-12T (200W, 1600kv) for the plane. When it arrived I mounted it "high style" on the gearbox mount and then cut away the excess so that the gearbox could fit inside the nose.

Of course, because the plane is designed for the gearbox, even though the high mount of the outrunner puts the prop shaft in the right alignment, there is still an issue with the motor sticking out to far.

A little bit of dremmel surgery got the engine stick cut down, and enough foam cleared up to allow the motor to be mounted to emerge approximately flush from the end of the nose.

With the motor mounted successfully it was time to turn to power options. Once again, the lack of design work since the NiMH days left limited choices. The battery compartment is not very high. While there are plenty of 3s battery packs that will fit the space, none of them are the $25 type. For example, a 3s 1200Flightpower will fit the space quite happily - but it will cost more than the rest of the plane combined.

I have a 3s 1250mAh Multiplex battery that is quite thin that I use with the GWS Zero. When I checked her with the Multiplex battery installed she was perfectly balanced.

Flying

With the plane and power system sorted it was time for the test flight.

I lined her up with my other warbirds for a bit of a group photo. I'd bought my other warbirds to the field so I could fly them all back to back, so as to get an immediate comparision between them.

It was quite a windy day but I was confident the sleek lines of the me109 would handle it okay, and after giving both the zero and the mustang a go, I opened the throttle on the Me109.

Apart from need about 3 clicks of up trim she flew almost dead straight from take off, which is always a nice sign for a straight aircraft.

Having flown all 3 of my warbirds back to back I did get a sense of her very quickly.

Comparing her to my floaty/aerobatic GWS Zero (smaller wing span, almost exactly the same weight), and my porky fly on the wing Mustang the Me109 was, surprisingly, much more like the Mustang than the Zero.

She is certainly a capable flyer, but she demands your attention, and has quite a nasty tip stall. It is also possible, unless you are careful or running at WOT, to put her into a spin in a high banked corner quite easily if you aren't careful with the elevator.

This probably isn't a particularly good starter warbird - her small wing span means she lacks effeiciency and she is twitchy, and her typical warbird cut means she needs to be flown with some care, but I'm confident she will be a lot of fun.

Well - here's the youtube of the maiden video:



Avionics:

I haven't had any problems with the provided servos. They seem to be doing their job well. The Guanli RX hasn't been super solid. A few twitches in flights since the initial maiden have caused a little concern.

Conclusion:

This is a neat little plane, cheap, and fast to build. It flys like a warbird - it flys nicely on the wing, but it is unforgiving and has a real tip stall. Keep the energy up and learn how to fly her and you will have a lot of fun.

The lack of modernisation of the design (which is still built for NiMH) is a bit of a shame, although it can all be modded around without too much difficulty.

24 Comments:

At 1:23 PM, Anonymous ryan mckenzie said...

what prop size does it have? Im looking into buying a 3bladed prop to make it more realistic.

 
At 2:38 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

DEAR I HAVE THE P47 THUNDERBOLT WILL YOUR MOTOR SET UP WORK WITH THIS BIRD .IT'S UNDER POWERED. AS THE STOCK 109 MOTOR IS. I HAVE A 4 BLADED PROP AND STOCK 2 BLAD PROPS ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. DON

 
At 7:52 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Is great your up grade. Without knowing about I choosed the same engine, same producer. Nice solution to modify the support of brushed engine but I will try to make one in CMM aluminium using general dim. of this plastic support. 5 stars for for the rewiew and very usefull.

 
At 3:37 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I have a GuanLi ME-109, but it´s very difficult for take-of and flying.
I think this plane is very "nervous" or unstable at low speed ...like the true ME-109 Warbirds.
Somebody has try to installs flaps or slat for flying more easy? ...for rokie pilot etc.

-Joe_Te-
from Spain

 
At 7:46 AM, Blogger Oz RC Boy said...

Hi Joe - thanks for dropping by and leaving a comment. My own thinking is that this is not a good model for a rookie. In fact, it tends to be at the upper end of the intermediate IMHO.

Cheers,
oz.

 
At 9:54 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi,
I had to add weight to the nose to move the CG to the spar. It was way behind the spar. Is this correct?
Also how long do I have to charge the 650 mha batteries with the included charger, 2 hours?
Thank you for your help.

 
At 6:58 PM, Blogger Oz RC Boy said...

I found mine needed a little nose weight. No idea about battery sorry - mine was ARF, not RTF. However, 650 sounds awfully small given the speed this bird needs to fly at.

 
At 3:54 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Oz.
After 4 flights ends in disaster, I installed a slats with small strips of foam, and I also dropped about 10 degrees the ailerons to make FLAPERONS.

In this way a very windy day that I got take-off the plane and flew about 15 seconds, right and leveled, but due to strong winds, about 20 km/h,(13mph) it crashed again.

Now I purchased a BRUSHLESS engine 90 Watts 1000Kv , a regulator, a 9x6 propeller and a LICoO2 battery of 1300mAh 7.4V. What do you think? Is this right for my GUANLI I-109?

I plan to install the battery in the belly of the airplane for the CG lower and more stable ¿What do you think?

Cheers .. From Spain

- Joe -

Now I purchased a motor BRUSHLESS 90 Watts, a regulator, a 9x6 propeller and a battery of 1300mAh 7.4V ¿LICoO2 you think this right for my GUANLI I-109?

I plan to install the battery in the belly of the airplane for the CG lower and more stable ¿do you think?
Greetings

 
At 4:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Oz!
After 4 flights ends in disaster, I installed a slats with small strips of foam, and I also dropped about 10 degrees the ailerons to make FLAPERONS.

In this way a very windy day that I got take-off the plane and flew about 15 seconds, right and leveled, but due to strong winds, about 20 km/h,(13mph) it crashed again.

Now I purchased a BRUSHLESS engine 90 Watts 1000Kv , a regulator, a 9x6 propeller and a LICoO2 battery of 1300mAh 7.4V. What do you think? Is this right for my GUANLI I-109?

I plan to install the battery in the belly of the airplane for the CG lower and more stable ¿What do you think?

Cheers ..From Spain

- Joe -

 
At 8:51 PM, Blogger Oz RC Boy said...

Hi Joe - the gear you bought sounds okay.

You don't need to worry about dropping the battery to lower the CoG. What you want to do is move the battery further forward (this makes planes more stable to a point) - however, if this is your first plane you are going to keep on having disasters - aim for an easier plane for an introduction.

 
At 6:14 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hello Oz:
The GUANLI Me-109 is not my first plane, I had 2 channels motor-glider before, and it was flying very well.. ..but the wind push it above Jesus Christ loss his espadrille. :-)
The GUANLI Me-109 is my first acrobatic plane.
My habitual airfield is always windy, It´s is necessary a speeder plane and something heavily for it advances against the wind.
I remember something about …If I moves the CoG forward, I made the plane faster ..It’s this correct?

Thank you for your responses.
Cherrs
-Joe-

 
At 8:29 AM, Blogger Oz RC Boy said...

If you move the weight forward (a little) you will make the aircraft more stable and better able to penetrate the wind.

About 1.5cm forward of the normal CoG should do it.

 
At 12:55 PM, Blogger DONALD said...

MY GUANLI P47 UP GRADE IS DONE ,TOWERPRO MOTOR 2408-21 ,130011.1 V 3 CELL.LIPO , 4 BLADE PROP.YOUR SITE HAS HELPED VERY MUCH. FIRST TIME FLYER HAVE A YEAR OF SIM TIME . AM CONFIDENT I CAN FLY HER. BUT HAVE ALOT TIME IN IT WHAT DO YOU THINK? DON.

 
At 7:19 AM, Blogger Oz RC Boy said...

Hi Don,

I wouldn't start on this plane. Regardless of how much sim time you have, this plane wont fly like the sim. If you have already waited a year what's a couple of months with a trainer. By something with 3 channels and get some air time. See how you go with that - from there you can decide when you are ready for a 109 (which is one of the harder fighters to fly).

Cheers,
Oz.

 
At 4:37 AM, Blogger DONALD said...

HELLO OZ ,TOOK YOUR ADVICE I'M BUILDING A HIGHT WING 3 CH TRAINER . I HAVE ALL THE ELEC COMPONENTS LEFT OVER FROM MY UPGRADE , I FOUND AN OLD COMET AERONCA KIT AT A YARD SALE , (5 BUCKS) 54"-136.16 CM WING SPAN ,I HAVE TO BUILD BUT THAT'S OK, IT BRINGS ME BACK TO FLYING RUBBER POWERED AIRPLAN DAYS. DON

 
At 9:09 AM, Blogger Oz RC Boy said...

Hi Donald,

Glad to hear - sure you wont regret the decision to start with a trainer. Puttering around can be immensely satisfying, and you will always have an aircraft on hand with which to introduce others.

Cheers,
oz.

 
At 1:38 PM, Blogger Mehmedean said...

i want to change the brushed motor to brushless one. I also want to replace the existing battery with a powerful one. The plane is en route, but I want to purchase the new motor and battery in advance. I don't know exact sizes, any help would be appreciated.

 
At 10:58 AM, Blogger TOMMY BOY said...

Is the CoG at the Spar?

 
At 11:00 AM, Blogger TOMMY BOY said...

what would you use to push the CoG forward?

 
At 11:02 AM, Blogger TOMMY BOY said...

Where is the CoG - at the spar. Also what would you use to push the CoG forward?

T-Boy

 
At 11:11 AM, Blogger TOMMY BOY said...

Any problems getting the spinner connected? Any trickes to this assembly?

 
At 5:24 PM, Blogger Oz RC Boy said...

Tommy I've got a feeling mine balances about three quarters of an inch back from the spar but she is quite twitchy (on purpose - for combat). Starting at the spar should be safe.

 
At 5:28 PM, Blogger Oz RC Boy said...

Meh - she will fly well on anything from 100 watts onwards. If you want an exact setup just buy the one that I have noted in my blog post (Towerpro 2409-12T with any 18A ESC - I'm pretty partial to the Ewatts if you can get them).

 
At 5:34 PM, Blogger Oz RC Boy said...

Some weight inside the front cowling is the best bet. Lead sinkers etc. Have you built and flown before?

 

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